A Bohemian Rhapsody!

Cesky Krumlov, Czechia. Sunday, 21st May, 2017

Woke up later than usual, out of bed at 06:00. Went for a stroll along Vogelweiderstrasse (Salzburg, Austria), once again soaking up the dream-like ambience, clicking away crazily. Returned to the hotel at 07:00, had tea in its cosy breakfast room and went back to our room to finish the morning ablutions, pack, eat breakfast and leave for the pretty village of Cesky Krumlov in the charming Bohemian countryside of my favourite European country, Czechia. I had disclosed the plan of visiting Cesky Krumlov to Urmila only yesterday (men can easily keep secrets and plan a surprise!) but she did not seem too enthusiastic, as Salzburg and the 'Sound of Music Tour' had invaded her being.* My 'surprise' turned out to be a damp squib! Does not matter; there is always a next time. I have already decided to return to Salzburg for a longer stay, visit the castle and take the Salt Mines tour that also covers Hitler's residence - the Eagle's Nest. It is now 08:29 and Urmila's getting ready. bags are packed; we will go down for breakfast at 09:00.

It is 21:05. I am sitting on an old wooden chair and am writing this entry having placed the diary on a round wooden table covered by a lovely table cloth, topped with attractive table mats. To my left is a super old window with white panes and brass handles. Just outside it are similar windows and beyond that stretches the majestic and magnificent view of the green and serene village of Cesky Krumlov, the skyline dominated by the castle, the two towers and red roofs; the green foliage in the foreground - straight out of a fairy tale! We are at Ubytovani Jelinkova, a bungalow let out as a hotel. The table is situated in the spacious living room, adjacent to which - to my right - is the equally spacious bedroom that looks out onto a sweet garden, nestling against which are the gardens of other similar bungalows; we seem to be in a colony of bungalows. We had always longed to stay in one of these typically European houses with their red roofs and now we were actually doing so; that too in my all-time favourite favourite village of Cesky Krumlov! It seems like a dream! We had visited this village on a day trip three years ago and had fallen head-over-heels in love with it. We had decided then to return to this captivating village for a stay of two to three nights and it had actually materialised !! Urmila is now happy !!

At 11:15 this morning at Salzburg, we had walked from our hotel to the railway station, along beautiful, sparsely populated sidewalks, admiring the town all the way. A small car bearing the 'CK Shuttle' logo arrived at 11:50 and just as we were about to sit inside, the driver said that we could not travel, as he did not have our names on his list! Just then, a larger CK shuttle arrived and we were its bonafide passengers. The shuttle left immediately and we reached here at 14:35; a journey spanning a little over two hours and a half. The travel had been smooth, affording us another opportunity to simply wonder at the unbelievably captivating Austrian countryside which is indeed out of this world! After passing the city of Linz, the shuttle changed direction and soon we were in Czechia. The landscape changed - became more rustic - the roads changed; more and more cobbled lanes; the houses changed - smaller buildings with pleasing pastel shades so typical of East Europe, bearing typical Czech names starting with the alphabet 'C' and the best part - the gently gurgling Vltava keeping us company throughout! We stopped on the way for just 5-7 minutes at a small village that had a vending machine for tea, other drinks and packaged snacks on a sidewalk. Smart! No stopping at restaurants where passengers take their own time eating, drinking and returning to the vehicle. The driver seemed to be an expert at his job and never exceeded the speed limits on the highway, he did overtake but very systematically; he never sounded the horn or tried to show one-upmanship over other vehicles; he did not display any bravado; simply followed all traffic rules. It had been a superfast and super-comfortable journey. This is one of the major highlights of Europe; hassle-free travel from one place to another.

Ubytovani Jelinkova looked very attractive - a bungalow with our much loved red roof, one storeyed, having a big garden front, back and at the sides, situated in a chic residential area, just a little removed from the main part of Cesky Krumlov. Perfect! The metal gate at the entrance was locked so we rang the bell - twice, thrice. An elderly lady who seemed to be in her late sixties came down the V-shaped stone path hurriedly and said with a smile, "Yes, yes!" She greeted us with "Are you from India?" Obviously, she was expecting us. Led us up the garden path (no pun intended!) to the entrance which was on the left side of the bungalow, evidently her residence. She lived on the ground floor and let out the first. The porch, reached by two or three steps, was tastefully decorated. There was also a petite study with windows having white lace curtains giving it a sublime look and that directly overlooked the garden to the front and one side. The carpeted stairs that curved and led to the first floor were lovely - wooden; oozing old world charm. Fancy objects, including an impish devil, were placed at the edges of the stairs and decorated the small landing where the stairs curved. The entire place emitted strong, positive vibes and we fell in love with it. The rooms on the first floor were huge - I have described them earlier. Paid Madam Vera Jelinkova (we learnt that that was her name) the entire rent (Euro 105/-) for the three nights' stay; had a quick wash though we really needn't have had, as in Europe there is neither dirt nor sweat; and eagerly set out for the town, thrilled to be back in familiar territory.

Turned left onto the downward sloping road, then right, crossed the road, down a flight of stairs and we were on the cobbled street of our favourite European village. Strolled along slowly, recalling the visit of May 2014. Lunched on draught beer, chicken breast topped with blue cheese; french fries; and ginger ale. Super!

Sauntered along the narrow, cobbled streets of the fairy tale village - through the charming town square (declared by UNESCO as a world heritage site), to the bridge spanning the Vltava. Went down to Drovak restaurant by the riverside, to revive memories of our lunch there, three years ago. Then, crossed the bridge after clicking pictures, spotted the restaurant where we had sipped coffee on that cool May afternoon of 2014, then past the chocolate shop (the marzipan bear wasn't there in the show-window), the petite gingerbread shop Cesky Pernik, to the castle - its office had closed. Slowly retraced our steps, stopping at a souvenir shop on the way to purchase fridge magnets and two guidebooks - one on Praha and the other on Cesky Krumlov.

Reached the bungalow after a brief halt for ice-cream; changed and went down to relax in the study. Had a nice chat with Vera (she spoke broken English), showed her photos of my mother; my students back home. Vera is now past 70; and a pensioner. Earlier, she had been a chemistry teacher! Urmila asked her to join us for lunch tomorrow. Borrowed her charger and returned to our suite.

NOTE:

Do check out my earlier write-up on this mesmerizing place, titled 'Inside a fairy tale'; under the category 'Czech and Slovak Republics'; on this website.

* Check out my blog "These are a few of my favourite things" under the category 'Austria', on this website.