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The Romantic Rhine!

  • Writer: Sandeep Palekar
    Sandeep Palekar
  • Jun 12, 2022
  • 4 min read

Koblenz, Deutschland. Sunday, 8th May 2022


The Rhine Gorge! Popularly known as 'The Romantic Rhine', the gorge is a seductive, 65 kilometres stretch of the tantalising river, in the Upper Middle Rhine Valley, between Koblenz and Bingen. The plan was to visit two charming towns on the Romantic Rhine - Bacharach and Boppard.


Out of bed at 05:30. Finished a lesson on Duolingo and started readying to eat breakfast by 09:00. Enjoyed the variety at breakfast.


Walked to the Koblenz Stadtmitte Bahnhof, via Schloss strasse. It being a Sunday, the area wore a deserted look, a complete contrast to the scene of the last evening ! Reached the Bahnhof and climbed to platform no. 2 for the 10:10 train to Bacharch. The train was delayed by 15 minutes. "What is it with Deutsche Bahn," we wondered! We did not remember facing delays on trains on any of our three previous trips to Germany! However, we enjoyed a comfortable ride to Bacharach, admiring river views on the left.

The curves of the Rhine were especially beautiful! Bacharach Bahnhof was a tiny one. We exited and turned right, in the direction of the Rhine. Passed through the level crossing onto the main road, beyond which lay a green area, complete with a swing, a children's play zone, benches to sit on and bask in the sun. This was the left bank of the gently flowing Rhine. We spent time on one of the benches, just soaking in the serenity of the scene. How quiet! How beautiful! A divine connect with nature! Along the right bank of the broad river ran a motorable road, adjacent to which ran a railway track. Beyond the track loomed verdant hills - thick with vegetation - with a few houses and the mandatory church studded in them. To our left, in the distance, the Rhine curved to the right, complete with the motorable road and the railway track on the left bank. The left bank boasted its share of verdant hills with vineyards and compact dwellings. Right behind us, above the pretty village, loomed a castle in grey stone! The entire setting was magical and mesmeric! I had longed to visit this place and experience this! My desire was fulfilled today! Once again, a huge 'Thank You!' to the powers that be, who made it possible!

Walked back to the main road and crossing it, turned right in the direction of the main part of the village. Now, the railway line lay to our left and behind it - very close and almost touching it - was a row of attractive buildings that simply oozed old-world charm! We walked on, admiring the structures. The castle above made its presence felt at every step. Spotted an interesting looking cobbled street to our left. We followed it, going through a stone arch under the railway line. I felt the need to relieve myself and have a drink. We were now between rows of the old-world buildings and Urmila knocked at the robust door of one that looked like a restaurant.

A man with oriental features opened the heavy door and welcomed us. We were inside a restaurant that was part of a hotel. We ordered a coffee and a bottled beer (no draft!) . The man nodded and asked us to it. We spotted tables laid out on the balcony, which was shaking hands with the railway line! We chose to sit on the balcony, which offered a fair view of the river too. later on, we strolled around the interesting village that reminded us of my favourite Cesky Krumlov (Czech Republic); and then boarded the 12:50 regional express to Boppard. Conversed with a German family (wife Filipino) about Europe and India. Alighted at Boppard Hauptbahnhof and exited to our right, on the river side.


Boppard was a typical German small town/village, quite similar to Cochem. A downward slope, perpendicular to the railway line, led to the river. We naturally followed it and were soon on the boulevard by the riverside. Wonderful constructions, facing the river, adorned one side of the road. There were restaurants galore, all with outdoor seating. Spent time gently strolling up and down the boulevard, admiring everything around us, especially the pretty river with its verdant backdrop. The weather was great - bright and sunny, the climate cool. Ideal conditions for a tourist! Also for the locals, of course!

Ate lunch - Chicken Pasta with Radler; and fruit juice- pineapple with lemon and ginger. Strolled back to the Bahnhof through the village - as beautiful as they come, complete with cobbled roads and pavements, half-timbered buildings and churches; constructions dating back centuries!

Arrived at the Bahnhof, admiring each and every building on the way, well in time for the 15:12 train to Koblenz. Spotted bus no. 670 with 'Koblenz' in bold on its neon indicator, ready to depart. We ascertained from the driver that our Rhineland-Pfalz day ticket was valid for the bus too, before boarding it and occupying good seats in the almost empty bus. Wonder how they can afford to run near empty buses and trains!

Enjoyed a cool and comfortable ride along the left bank of the Rhine; and through tiny, dulcet hamlets, right up to Koblenz Hauptbahnhof bus station. Then boarded a local bus no. 5. No sooner had we sat down than the driver was upon us, asking to see our tickets! Did we look like ticketless travellers or something? He was satisfied on seeing our ticket and went back to his seat, to do the job that he was being paid for. Rode till the Zentrumplatz and then walked to our hotel, Trierer Hof. Felt a drop or two of rain, but there were no alarms.


Organised our bags for the departure to Stuttgart tomorrow. Urmila was resting when I was penning the entry for today. Went down to the reception for tea at 17:55 or so. Enjoyed it with Chedda's 'Madrasi Mixture', imported by us from India! Settled the hotel bill and returned to our room, armed with a couple of toffees offered to us by the friendly lady at the desk.


It is now 18:54 and I have completed the major part of the entry for today.


Nothing to add except that we went to sleep at 21:00!





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